Radici

D&D London (Quaglino’s, German Gymnasium, Angler) capitalised on its star signing of Francesco Mazzei by persuading the Islington local to re-fashion Almeida as a neighbourhood Italian. Radici is a more down-to-earth proposition than the chef’s Sartoria, more trattoria than ristorante, albeit styled with the habitual D&D elan. With its eye-catching tiled floors and spindly wooden furniture, Radici looks like an interiors spread from a colour supplement, right down to the olive tree-fringed terrace which affords peerless people-watching of the comings and goings of the Almeida theatre opposite.

Ingredients are fresh and seasonal – nibble on some sweet-as-can-be grilled peas while you peruse a menu inspired by Mazzei’s southern Italian childhood. Starters impressed the most: meatballs with a deliciously rich depth of flavour, and a soft curl of perfectly cooked octopus tentacle, crisped up at the tip and surrounded by equally well-timed cannellini beans. Pastas were pedestrian in comparison, and mains of mushroom ragu with polenta, and calf’s liver involtino – rolled into a cigar and stuffed with pancetta, garlic and sage – were both too salty to be enjoyable; instead, order one of the excellent pizzas, buoyed up on pillowy dough puffed up from the wood-fired oven

The Italian wine list has lots of interest under £40, although staff need more training on the finer points (a request for a glass of sweet wine was met with a suggestion of bone-dry Tio Pepe). We’ve always been big fans of Mazzei and we’re sure he’ll iron any issues out – not least so he has somewhere to take the family for a feasting-style Sunday lunch.    

D&D restaurant Radici is overseen by Chef Patron Franceso Mazzei in his local neighbourhood of Islington. Offering a relaxed and welcoming atmosphere that lends itself more to a trattoria than a ristorante, Radici is a reliable destination for everything from after-work drinks to a family dinner. Meanwhile, Southern Italian chef Giuseppe Cafaro runs the kitchen on a day-to-day basis, having previously worked for Francesco at Sartoria for many years. 

The interiors have been designed by acclaimed designer David d’Almada, using natural materials to create a light, bright and welcoming space. It also offers a charming terrace for guests to dine al fresco during the warmer months. Head here for everything from a sun-soaked lunch or a quick coffee, to a romantic dinner or drink. 

Ingredients are fresh and seasonal and the menu is inspired by Mazzei’s southern Italian childhood. Starters feature meatballs with nduja and Grana Padano and burrata with radicchio and hazelnuts. While main courses are split into pasta, meat, fish and pizzas, with an emphasis on food that is rustic and authentic. That’s not to say the dishes aren’t inspired though, with pizza toppings featuring chilli jam, pesto and pumpkin seeds, and spicy salami, nduja and smoked ricotta. 

Brunch is served here every Saturday and Sunday from 12 to 3 pm, and features dishes such as scrambled eggs with Calabrian sausage and peppers and Radici pancakes with wild berries and honey. Pre and post-theatre menus and a pizza club offer are also available for a limited time throughout the week. There’s even a ‘bambini’ menu for kids so you can bring the whole family along to enjoy the fun.  

The wine list features plenty of Italian varieties as well as artisan Italian beers and fresh cocktails. Examples include Negroni ‘del Mazzei’ which combines gin, rosolio, cocchi americano and three olives, as well as The Godfather, a simple mix of whisky and Disaronno.