Orwells

Named after legendary author George Orwell, who spent his childhood living in the area, this brilliant eatery has been painstakingly realised by Ryan Simpson and Liam Trotman – two chefs known for their “clever creativeness” (according to one reader). Well-bred pubby charms, good looks and reasonable prices belie a defiantly British repertoire based on locally sourced ingredients, foraged pickings, home-grown vegetables and honey from the owners’ hives.

The kitchen works hard and it shows, with one reader hailing Orwells as a “beacon of inventive, top-class modern cuisine”. The restaurant sets the tone with superb home-baked sourdough bread before diners are treated to a cavalcade of picture-perfect plates ranging from Cornish streked gurnard with Bajan spice, green strawberries and spring onions to a honey sponge topped with proper honeycomb, salted caramel and wild strawberries.

In between, you can expect ingredient-led dishes which “pay homage to the seasons”, such as Devon duck breast with miso-glazed globe artichoke, apricot and pak choi, or barbecued cauliflower with Jersey royal potatoes, asparagus, peas, and king oyster mushrooms.

If you fancy eliminating the burden of choice, Orwells offers a multi-course tasting menu called ‘Taste The Season’ (a vegetarian version is also available to diners). Served to the whole table, the seasonally changing menu is a love letter to the best ingredients of the moment and might include the likes of chicken with Exmoor caviar and kaffir lime, or perhaps Dover sole with dashi and lime. Both a ‘standard’ and ‘prestige’ wine flight is available to complete your meal at an extra cost.

A set lunch menu offers outstanding value, while the Sunday lunch offering sees beef or pork served up alongside crackling and roast potatoes. The thoughtfully chosen wine list is a further draw, but its Orwell’s charming and unfussy atmosphere that remains one of its greatest assets.  

With a slew of awards to its name, Orwells is no stranger to critical acclaim and has managed to do what many fail to do – maintain its momentum. Since it opened in 2010, this sweet Oxfordshire restaurant has drawn diners from across the country.

What, then, is the key its success? We think it’s most likely the personality on every plate. Headed up by Ryan Simpson and Liam Simpson (not related), the duo is invested in creating a laidback yet fine dining experience for their guests and the unpretentious, upbeat service helps to buoy this. Ryan’s experience lies in Michelin starred French kitchens, while Liam’s journey has included time at one of Liverpool’s best restaurants and a stint in Devon at five star hotel Bovey Castle.

The dining room at Orwells is found inside an 18th Century pub, with the traditional wooden bar still the centrepiece to the space. Elsewhere, neat tables and chairs adorn things while there’s a blue colour scheme that reflects the deliberate simplicity of the menu.

Passionate about province and sustainability, both Ryan and Liam have been known to change the entire menu on a daily basis to keep up with what’s best in season. With its own patch of land the restaurant is able to grow much of what it uses, while meat and fish are sourced as locally as possible. 

With both a la carte and tasting menus on offer, Orwells provides something for every occasion, and there’s even a garden where you’re welcome to grab drinks and snacks should the weather be playing ball. Vegans and vegetarians are all catered for too via dedicated billings. While dishes change regularly, example mains include Devon duck breast with Roscoff onions, purple sprouting broccoli and truffle or a salt baked celeriac with cheddar, onions, hen of the wood mushrooms, hazelnuts and kalettes.