Hikmat Antippa started his culinary career at J Sheekey in Covent Garden, before opening his first Meza – a glorified kebab shop with a few tables by Tooting Bec station. Since then, he has added this follow-up eatery on Mitcham Road – an atmospheric and cheerfully pint-sized place, with rug-strewn benches, woven baskets on the wall and a menu of forthright Lebanese classics.
This is expert, authentic food “cooked with heart”, kicking off with an enterprising run through the mezze repertoire – from hummus, tabbouleh and kibbeh to batinjen makdous (oil-pickled aubergines with walnuts) or sautéed chicken livers dressed with pomegranate molasses. To follow, high-protein grills and kebabs are the order of the day, including skilfully de-boned poussin cooked to crusty perfection.
There are gutsy Lebanese wines too, if you need something stronger than mint tea. Keen prices ensure that Meza is “constantly busy”.