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SquareMeal Review of Xier

Gold Award

This first solo project from Italian chef Carlo Scotto (ex-Murano) shuns the food of his home country in favour of best-of-British produce fashioned into some very fine-dining modern cooking. As at another contemporary take on haute cuisine, Hide in Mayfair, the restaurant operates as two distinct spaces: Xier is the tasting menu-focused first floor, while downstairs, XR has a slightly more casual, accessible and slightly cheaper offering.

We dined from the 10-course tasting menu in Xier, which lasted over four hours. Needless to say, this is occasion dining, replete with theatre, sleek service and Michelin-baiting dishes that are turned out with assembly-line precision. Prices are high, portions are small and jugs of water are kept away from your table, because pouring one’s own drink here would be unthinkable.

Despite the fussiness, there is some real flair on show. Highlights from the 10 courses included a slither of sparklingly fresh rose-cured salmon, paired with a fatty blob of foie gras which is dusted with an earthy beetroot powder. Blobs of Bramley apple dotted along the edges add extra bursts of vivid freshness.

Another stand-out is the sublime black cod, which is supremely flaky, sleek with oil and brushed with a caramel miso. The accompanying best-in-class vegetables – crunchy asparagus spears and dried parsnip crisps – only added to our enjoyment.

The reward for reaching the end of the dining marathon is a cheese course featuring mouth-puckering fizzy grapes on the side, then a selection of desserts which the menu simply labels ‘Sweet tooth’. They’re not kidding: the caramel tart comes with a sticky, sugary centre sandwiched between a chocolate top and crunchy biscuit base.

Unlike many new London restaurants, Xier is a dining experience that requires you to be totally present. If you’re a fan of this increasingly rare kind of full-on fine-dining, you’ll be more than happy to give it your full attention.

About Xier

This fine-dining restaurant is the first solo project from chef Carlo Scotto, who counts Murano’s Angela Hartnett as his mentor. The minimalist, chic space is split across two floors, with a tasting menu served in the first-floor Xier and a more accessible and casual offering, XR, in the ground-floor space.

Dishes you’ll find in XR include the likes of yellowfin tuna tartar served with aubergine caviar, garden salad and taro chips, or hanger steak with pickled walnuts and shallots. Upstairs in Xier, you’ll find a 10-course tasting menu which features dishes such as Obsiblue prawns served with wild fennel, wasabi caviar and fresh raspberry, alongside other plates including rose-cured salmon with foie gras and burnt figs.

Good to know about Xier

Average Price
££££ - Over £80
Cuisines
Modern European
Ambience
Formal, Glamorous, Quiet conversation
Alfresco And Views
Outside seating
People
Special occasions

Location for Xier

13-14 Thayer Street, London, W1U 3JR

020 7486 3222

Website

Opening Times of Xier

Dinner
Mon: 18:00-21:00
Tue: 18:00-21:00
Wed: 18:00-21:00
Thu: 18:00-21:00
Fri: 18:00-21:00
Sat: 18:00-21:00
Sun: Closed

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