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The interiors may be standard-issue country pub (exposed timbers, low beams, polished wood tables, open fire), but the recently revived Square & Compasses is a refreshing addition to the Essex dining scene. With its vigorously English food, the lengthy menu has a decidedly old-fashioned flavour: here you might find plates of local ham with two free-range eggs, fries & crusty bread, homemade steak & kidney pie with garden peas & mash, or warm pigeon breast & bacon salad with a mustard-seed dressing; also check out the sirloin steak topped with garlic, flat mushrooms & a real-ale rarebit. An inviting out-of-the-way location adds to the charm.
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