Set in charming gardens, The Salutation in Sandwich offers the potential to extend a meal into an afternoon, a day or a weekend - thanks to a handful of hotel rooms on site.
Once run up by Steph and Dom of Googlebox fame, the most recent iteration of this Kent stately home sees a restaurant placed at the heart of things. Headed up by chef Shane Hughes, whose CV includes The Connaught and Michelin Star Ynyshir Hall, the Tasting Room (one of three dining spaces, but the best) is completed by a glass wall that affords you a look into the state-of-the-art kitchen where the team run a slick operation. Being able to see elements of your meal being prepared gives kid-at-Christmas levels of excitement when you’re hungry.
In the evening there are tasting and a la carte options, but at £55 for five courses, anything but the former seems irrational. The food is playful while remaining mindful of providence, and nothing seems done purely for the sake of a gimmick. A ‘lobster dog’ sees the shellfish ‘sausage’ served in a steamed bao with shredded duck and lentils - a small bottle of vinaigrette on the side for self-saucing. Careful balance of flavours and textures are seen throughout, with a marinated tuna loin one of the best things we ate - the rich fish tempered with flavours of sesame and sweet soy, while tempura crisps gave a moreish crunch not a million miles away from chip shop ‘scraps’. Elsewhere silky foi gras is paired with quail and rice pudding is given tropical sharpness from barbecued pineapple. The finalé was quite the spectacle - a puffed up pumpkin seed soufflé which is brought quivering to the table where one of the chefs will quenelle a scoop of chocolate ice cream for you, and then sink it right through the heart of your pud.
Paired drinks are thoughtfully selected by Master of Wine Vincent Gasnier: a line-up that includes fresh English sparklers and rich French reds, as well as a buttery Sauternes to finish.
Service is keen and pleasant but somehow there’s a disconnect between the level of the kitchen and the ambiance and setting of the rest of the restaurant. It feels as though the aspirations of The Salutation have been set by Shane and it might just take a little while for the rest of the place to catch up.