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Though firmly in the gastropub mould, this capacious rendezvous doesn’t neglect its liquid assets. Sink into a Chesterfield or take a pew in the wood-panelled bar, & sample Cotswold wheat beer
or wild berry cider from the frequently changing inventory. Alternatively, order a glass from the varied wine list & stroll round to the expansive dining area with its striking art-deco light
fittings, polished wooden flooring & mismatched furniture. Here, the busy kitchen works to a daily menu featuring plenty of interesting dishes from smoked haddock risotto cake with a poached
egg to sea bream & aubergine stew with chorizo – although you’ll also find reassuringly familiar dishes such as game terrine with pickled red cabbage or grilled côte de boeuf with chips.
Outside, a verdant beer garden is popular in summer.
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24 April 2011
The starter of Buffalo mozzarella, crushed broad bean, mint & rocket salad, lemon oil was generous with fresh salad leaves, large chunks of tangy high quality mozzarella, moist broad beans and a perfectly suited dressing. I would return just to experience this starter again, but I might have trouble convincing my dining partner to join me – her Grilled mackerel Niçoise salad starter was disappointing, lacking a dressing to pull all the ingredients together.
The dried cherry tomato, pesto & parmesan risotto was large but utterly boring. The dried tomatoes were hard unless mixed for a while with the risotto, and it felt like it was missing a really punchy pesto and perhaps some crunchy toasted pine nuts on top would have improved it. The sausage and mash main course was unremarkable with slightly tough sausages.
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