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Devotees of this comfortably renovated former village pub, now a restaurant-with-rooms, know what to expect: open for dinner only, booking essential, very personal in a foodie kind of way. It’s all in the detail, from the exemplary local supplies to Duncan Walker’s short but knockout menu. The masterfully delivered line-up changes regularly depending on what’s available, but you might be treated to saffron risotto of lobster with roast shellfish olive oil, grilled saddle of rabbit with sage & onion, or roast squab pigeon with salsify, broad beans & bacon, plus puds such as blackcurrant soufflé with burnt honey ice cream – nothing fussy, just good seasonal ingredients put together well.
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