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Caprice Holdings has once again cleverly exploited The Ivy’s cachet, this time via a spin-off mini-chain that offers the groomed looks, buzzy ambience and sparkling service of the original, but without the celebs or the long wait for a table. Although the menus have that unmistakable Ivy stamp, they’re generally tailored to the location (note the famed shepherd’s pie with Wookey Hole Cheddar mash served at the Clifton branch).
Otherwise, the telling mix of light dishes and comfort food manages to feel 100 per cent indulgent, whether you order tuna carpaccio topped with spiced avocado and lime-zipped crème fraîche, aromatic duck curry laced with coconut or brioche-crumbed chicken milanese with a fried egg and truffle-laced mayonnaise. If the whole shebang seems special, that’s because it is – so dress the part, whether you’ve dropped by for a breakfast meeting, afternoon tea or late-night cocktail session.
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