Stanley's Chelsea

Walking into Stanley’s feels a little like you might have got yourself tangled up in the set of Made in Chelsea, complete with a clubby soundtrack that sets a tone of somewhere guests come hoping to be ‘seen’.

While the faux hanging blossom displays in the outdoor courtyard space aren’t perhaps to everyone’s tastes, they do create a pretty backdrop to some of London’s best people watching in a busy, buzzy setting. The crowd is decidedly demanding, with groups of friends and family gathering round the mix and match outdoor tables to enjoy chef Oliva Burt’s cooking (while putting the well-meaning, if a little hectic, front of house staff through their paces).

On our visit, small plates of cod’s roe dip and crispy prawns with a Siracha mayo both did the job of whetting the appetite well enough but were on the generous side of being well-seasoned. Mains brought perfectly cooked Dexter beef with a sweet onion puree that was crowned with a smoked egg yolk for a fun twist on a classic combo. Barbecued beetroot sadly lacked the chargrilled flavour it promised, but was sweet and satisfying, with the salty tang of goat’s cheese and herb oil cutting adding a nice edge. While plates weren’t piping hot or perfect, they were deftly balanced in flavour.

Pastry, you can tell, is Burt’s passion with delicately presented, precise puddings finishing things off. The infamous plums and custard from her MasterChef competition line up looked beautiful with a ring of biscuit adorned with flowers topping a small pot of creamy custard and ticked the sweet, creamy and fruity boxes. Elsewhere, death by chocolate came as a sort of caramelised ganache which was complimented by a rich butter cake that held up well against the intense flavours elsewhere in the mix.

In line with the food, the cocktail menu is concise, offering just a handful of classic serves, and wine starts from a very reasonable £30 a bottle for a crisp Sauvignon Blanc.

Found just off the King’s Road in the heart of Chelsea, Stanley’s opened its doors just after lockdown ended hoping – we assume – to take advantage of lots of cooped up Londoners looking for a new place to enjoy dining out again.

Described on the website as ‘a secret garden in Chelsea’, the décor appeals to the Instagram set with plenty of faux hanging blossom stretching across the outdoor courtyard space, with marble tables and soft green touches throughout. Inside, things are a little cosier, thanks to bare brick walls and plush soft furnishings, while the finish is a bit mix and match. The best seats in the house, we think, are in the lean-to conservatory section that spans the space between indoor and out, with views of the garden but the comfort of an inside atmosphere. It might seem obvious but the picture-pretty elements draw a well-heeled crowd of people keen to take advantage of the photo opportunity, so be prepared for some posing.

The main menu is kept short but sweet and focuses on ingredient-led dishes with particular attention paid to presentation. Starters come in the form of a flurry of small plates with combinations like British burrata with courgette, peas and pesto, as well as whipped cod's roe with spring crudites and Isle of White tomatoe with peach, sunflower seeds and basil.

Main dishes are carefully curated and offer something for everyone. Meat eaters will love the West Country spring lamb with asparagus and grape must sauce, while pescatarians are covered with fresh, day boat fish or Atlantic cod with sea vegetables and Jerusalem artichoke. As for vegetarian diners, the graffiti aubergine with burnt onion and apricot harissa sounds delicious. 

Lending itself to both a special occasion restaurant and a place for quick midweek meals, Stanley’s has gained a reputation within one London’s fanciest boroughs for good reason.