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Housed in a converted Victorian pub in the shadows of the Trellick Tower, this second venue from the duo behind hot-ticket 108 Garage brings some much-needed glamour to Golborne Road – no wonder well-heeled locals are already packing the place for its take on Japanese/Peruvian fusion food. The proprietors have certainly done a good job in creating a cool destination, sparing no expense on decor (note the downstairs ceiling) and providing a buzzing soundtrack to keep the vibe upbeat. However, we found the on-trend (if somewhat unoriginal) menu rather hit-and-miss: a moreish heritage tomato and horseradish mascarpone dish stood out among the starters, while a tender piece of sea bass with yuzu koshu rub was the pick of the mains; by contrast, our flavourless soft-shell crab harumaki roll was instantly forgettable, and a Waygu rump needed its accompanying chilli ponzu to bring out the flavour. Drinks-wise, diners can pick from a handful of cocktails and a wine list that (surprisingly) favours the Old World. Beware: lots of small dishes and just six wines below £30 mean that the bill can add up quickly.
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Mr. Alex G
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