Port Mulgrave, between Staithes and Runswick Bay, is a village on the Cleveland Way long-distance footpath. The Ship Inn was a down-at-heel pub when Tom and Jane Gjertson took it on: they kept the licence and with Jane’s acute sense of Scandinavian style, turned into a charming tearoom – the kind of place that people appreciate for its scrubbed wood floors, communal pine table, comfy sofas and pine chairs. You can read the papers as a fire burns merrily in the stove, but it’s at the vintage counter where the fun begins. On display might be home-baked scones, cheesecake, bitter orange and almond cake, and the Baker Boys chocolate cake. At lunch there’s usually soup with fresh rolls, while drinks run from good coffee to organic bottled beers, cider, lager and wines. And it’s still a traveller’s rest, with two lovely bedrooms.