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This sweet Morning Lane café-bar is lovingly run by Matthew Doran & Lizzie Parle (sister of chef & Daily Telegraph food writer, Stevie Parle). The pair share an infectious enthusiasm for
great coffee (they brew Square Mile), great music & simple, naturally good food. House favourites are the unauthentic (& none the worse for it) Vietnamese banh mi, & breakfasts of fried
eggs with sumac. On ambitious cooking days, you might even find bratwurst (made in-house) or salsiccia-stuffed quail. As the café is licensed, you can have an accompanying James Boag’s beer (from
Tasmania) or glass of Viognier, too. The basement downstairs hosts live bands, readings & supper clubs.
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06 May 2014
The Railroad on Morning Lane isn't going to be somewhere you stumble upon, unless, that is, you have been bussed in for one of the other-worldly fashion tours taking in the Burberry or Aquascutum outlets slumming it with Tescos a few blocks away, or, maybe, you might be lost on some [fruitless] odyssey in search of an affordable pad in E8. Either way, if you do pass its unpromising corner defo pop in to see if they have a table. I went with my book-group of six ageing bibliophiles and we ended up leaving late, eating into valuable book discussion time and all because the food was soooo delicious. It's a small space with a limited menu, three starters and mains (one vegetarian on each) and a nice selection of wines. I had two course: pork-belly with a chickpea stew served with a salsa verde followed by some sort of almond and fruit tart. The pork-belly and its accompaniments was a knockout combination executed in a manner that would have left a Greg Wallace a gurning jumble of complimentary non-secuetors, loverrrly stuff – not that he'd come out this far. Attentive, intelligent and charming service left our group a satisfied lot. There are deals on two and three courses for £15 and £19 respectively. The other eaters gave thumbs up to the Onglet for mains and a flour-less chocolate tart.
Best meal out for some time and worth getting on your bike or bussing to it. A negative: the unfortunate who picked the vegetarian main ( a curry and rice dish) said it was boring – I am betting they usually do better.
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