London’s best game restaurants: A guide to the Glorious Twelfth

To the uninitiated, 12 August may well seem like any other summer’s day, ideally enjoyed outside on a grassy field soaking up the sunshine. To countryside folk though, this date in August is one of the highlights of the social calendar - that is because 12 August, otherwise known as The Glorious Twelfth, marks the official start of Britain’s shooting season.

The shooting season is when keen hunters go out in search of game, particularly the highly-prized grouse, which is unique to the UK and notoriously difficult to catch because of the fast speeds at which they fly. Every year, men and women across Great Britain don tweed outfits, put on their wellington boots and head out into the country to catch all manner of game, ranging from guinea fowl and squab pigeon to venison and pheasant.

As well as being something of a holiday among keen hunters, The Glorious Twelfth also represents an economic boon for the country, with many UK residents and international tourists paying to embark on highly sought after shooting voyages or tournaments. In fact, the shooting tourism industry, as it is known, reportedly brings in £30 million to the Scottish economy alone and a mammoth £150 million across the UK.

Although game season is a fixture of the countryside calendar, it also makes its way down to London, where several of the capital’s best restaurants add seasonal game to their menus. Throughout August until December, you are likely to find game dishes on the menu at some of the capital’s hotspots, particularly the gastropubs and British restaurants. That’s not to say that this is an exclusively British practice though, with some of London’s top Indian, French and other restaurants also getting in on the action.

To gain a full understanding of the shooting season, as well as find some of the best game restaurants in London, read our guide to the Glorious Twelfth below.

What is the Glorious Twelfth?

The Glorious Twelfth marks the official start of the shooting season across Britain. The day is a staple of the annual calendar in the British countryside and sees hunting enthusiasts pull out their guns once more to begin a season of shooting. At first, the game that is hunted is grouse, with pheasants and other birds being hunted later in the season.

What date is the Glorious Twelfth?

The Glorious Twelfth takes place every year on 12 August.

Why is it called the Glorious Twelfth?

12 August is considered ‘glorious’ because it marks the start of a new season for hunting fans and is often dubbed the ‘New Year’s Day of hunting’. It is also ‘glorious’ on a practical level, because of the positive impact on the economy - each year, the shooting tourism industry generates £30 million in Scotland and around £150 million across the UK.

How long is the grouse season?

The grouse shooting season begins on 12 August of each year and ends on 10 December.

What are the rules of the Glorious Twelfth and shooting season?

The most highly-prized game bird is grouse, which are unique to the UK and are famously difficult to hunt, flying at speeds of up to 70 miles an hour. Hunters are also forbidden to shoot them on Sundays.

Why is the Glorious Twelfth controversial?

With more people in the UK switching to a vegan diet, the practice of hunting in general is viewed by some as inhumane and unnecessary. Grouse hunting in particular is controversial because environmentalists say that the practice endangers wildlife and contributes to global warming. Animal activist groups also believe that landowners kill the natural predators of grouse in order to maintain the levels of grouse on their land, which can be converted into cash made from shooting tourism.

However, supporters of the shooting tourism industry argue that they are actually helping the grouse to survive. This is because grouse rely on the heather on the moorlands where they live, eating the young shoots and using the older stems to make nests and shelter. Supporters of hunting say that burning the heather helps to encourage further growth and maintain the grouse's source of food and shelter.

London’s best game restaurants

Want to know what all the fuss is about when it comes to game season? Check out our pick of the best London restaurants serving game this year.

The Hunter's Moon, South Kensington

What: Where many have tried and failed, South Kensington gastropub Hunter’s Moon manages to create a country pub feel in a refined city setting. Throughout game season the menu plays host to a selection of grouse offerings, including grouse pate to start and mains of roast grouse breast.
Where: 86 Fulham Road, South Kensington, SW3 6HR
Book now: The Hunter’s Moon

Ganymede, Belgravia

What: Arguably one of Belgravia’s favourite neighbourhood restaurants, Ganymede is celebrating game season in a big way, with an exclusive Grouse Supper Club along with a selection of game specials on the menu throughout the month.
Where: 139 Ebury Street, Belgravia, SW1W 9QU
Book now: Ganymede

The Jugged Hare, City

What: Known for specialising in game, The Jugged Hare goes all out for game season - expect the likes of Norfolk squirrel croquettes and heather smoked Yorkshire red grouse breast and of course, the restaurant’s eponymous dish of jugged hare (a stew made from wild rabbit and cooked in a stone pot). The restaurant is also hosting a Glorious Grouse Gourmet Night on August 16th. 
Where: 49 Chiswell Street, EC1Y 4SA
Book now: The Jugged Hare

The Cinnamon Club, Westminster

What: Vivek Singh’s modern Indian fine dining restaurant The Cinnamon Club has its very own take on British game. Throughout game season the restaurant is offering a flavour-packed chargrilled game breast with Achari spices, Tawa mince with mustard greens.
Where: 30-32 Great Smith Street, SW1P 3BU
Book now: The Cinnamon Club

45 Jermyn Street, St James’s

What: 45 Jermyn Street is known for its menu of luxe dishes (the restaurant is from the team behind Fortnum & Mason after all), but come game season, it really comes into its own, having previously added the likes of a grouse and foie gras pie to its menu. We can’t wait to see what they cook up this year.
Where: 45 Jermyn Street, SW1Y 6DN
Book now: 45 Jermyn Street

The Harwood Arms, Fulham

What: The reigning king of London’s gastropub scene, The Harwood Arms is well known for its menu of hi-spec pub classics, but the restaurant is also committed to serving seasonal game. During game season, you can expect the likes of grouse, pheasant, woodcock, snipe and mallard to be added to the menu.
Where: Walham Grove, SW6 1QP
Book now: The Harwood Arms

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