We‘re a big fan of Spanish restaurant Bravas Tapas in St Katharine Docks, so the news that co-founder Victor Garvey (below) is preparing a restaurant on Covent Garden’s Maiden Lane is music to our stomachs. Going it alone with modern Spanish tapas at Duende, we caught up with the Barcelona native to find out what to expect in February.
How and why did you choose Maiden Lane?
The West End has always been a bit of a dream for me. The history as well: it’s quite cool to look out your front window and see the oldest restaurant in London (Rules) still open for business - it puts everything into perspective.
We looked up what duende means… Can we expect fairy-tale goblins within?!
Aside from me? No, no goblins. But our mascot is a duende (a sprite), which symbolises what we are trying to achieve: we’ll be imparting a bit of playfulness and wonder into our food and service.
Which dish are you most looking forward to cooking at Duende?
It would have to be rosellat. It’s a toasted noodle dish, not dissimilar to fideuà or paella, but it is richer due to the concentrated shellfish stock used. It’s found very rarely outside of Spain, or even Valencia/Catalunya for that matter.
The space (below) is smaller and can accommodate about a third of what Bravas can, so we’ll be able to pay a bit more attention to every dish that comes out of the kitchen.
What do you expect from West End diners in comparison to the City?
Our City customers at Bravas tend to come for a whirlwind session of about an hour, drink and eat copiously and then vanish back to work. I’m hoping the West End will be a bit more relaxed – it’s as much about the energy the customer lends to the place, as the atmosphere you provide to the customer.
What was the most significant thing that you learned from opening Bravas Tapas (above)?
Listen to the customers. They are your business. Adapt. Don’t be too proud to take criticism. It was a steep learning curve.
With so much competition in the West End from Opera Tavern and two Barrafinas, how do you see Duende fitting in to the scene?
Well both Barrafina Adelaide Street and Drury Lane (above) will have a more frequent customer in me, as being closer will make the queues a bit more bearable. I’ve heard great things but have never been to Opera Tavern, but I can say that Barrafina is pretty much unsurpassable at what it does. What we will do is very different: it’s not strictly as traditional.
Which are your three favourite tapas dishes?
Boquerones (marinated white Cantabrian anchovies), chipirones (fried baby calamari), and callos a la Madrileña (slow-cooked tripe with tomato and chickpeas). Give me those three with a cold beer and I’m set.
Which is your all-time favourite restaurant and why?
In London, Yauatcha (below) has given me the most consistently excellent meals and service. Internationally I would have to say Alain Passard’s L’Arpege.
…and what about your top bar?
GOAT on Fulham Road in Chelsea. It opened when I was working at Blakes Hotel and it became our local. Since then, I’ve become quite good friends with the owners and they just treat you like family. Incidentally, they make a pretty kick-ass Napoletana pizza as well.
Who/what are your biggest cooking influences?
Madrid native Julian Serrano for his drive and mentorship, American restaurateur Thomas Keller for his attention to minute detail and Albert Adrià (coming to London in February), for his willingness to step outside the box.
For more restaurant and bar openings coming up next year, check out our coming soon list here
This article was published 21 December 2015