When TV chef Jun Tanaka opens his French/Mediterranean restaurant The Ninth, it will be restaurant number nine on his CV; you can’t argue with that work ethic, can you? So we’re pretty thrilled to see him landing on Charlotte Street, Fitzrovia, next month. So thrilled in fact, that we snuck our way into his phonebook and hey presto, he called to tell us more about what to expect. After eight years in the making, read on for more on The Ninth and what to expect from Jun’s menu, as well as a clutch of exclusive new food images.
Do you have a favourite dish that you are preparing for The Ninth?
Perhaps the most unique dish for winter will be the salt beef cheeks (below). Normally salt beef is made with brisket, so this is similar but with, I think, a better cut. When this was conceived, I was aiming for freshness. Beef cheeks tend to be served in a heavy, rich sauce, so I will be serving it with a light consommé instead, as well as brining the meat for five days to bring out the flavour. The cheeks are also poached in chicken stock: they become incredibly soft and pink and most importantly, not as heavy as usual. Finally, it’s served with the consommé, charred cabbage and bone marrow. I’m pretty sure you won’t find a dish like it elsewhere.
With Barbajuan set to feature on the menu, could you describe them for the uninitiated?
They're a snack from the east coast of southern France, originally from Monaco: a mixture of flour, water, egg and olive oil – almost like filo pastry. Traditionally stuffed with Swiss chard, pine nuts and feta, they’re super crispy on the outside, with bursts of flavour in the middle.
Salted beef cheeks, oxtail consommé and charred cabbage
What do you think of the current London restaurant scene?
It’s incredible. Which means it’s almost impossible to find a location for a restaurant! 20 people are gunning for every site which becomes available. If it hadn’t been so difficult to find this prime Charlotte Street location for The Ninth, I wouldn’t appreciate it so much. Fitzrovia was always the place I wanted to be: there’s a good balance of locals and business, with a nice neighbourhood feel that’s not too tourist-heavy.
Flamed mackerel, dill, cucumber and capers
Are there any trends that you think we should look out for?
I know that restaurants specialising in one particular thing is nothing new, but the Japanese tradition for restaurants perfecting one particular dish, to the point of making it into an artform, is slowly spreading here. I think soba noodles will be big news soon: they’re made from buckwheat so appeal to the health-conscious, and you can have them warm or cold with all different kinds of toppings. Watch this space…
Razor clam ceviche
As you were born in New York City, do you ever return to check out the restaurant and bar scene? Any tips?
Locanda Verde in Tribeca is the place I always return to, from chef Andrew Carmellini. A dining experience has to start when you arrive outside: Locanda Verde has that glow when you walk past – you want to walk in. The Ninth will be the same. The lighting has to be right, so we’ll make sure it’s warm, inviting and glowing out onto the street.
The Ninth will open on Charlotte Street in November. Check out more restaurants and bars preparing to launch in the capital here.
Portraits images by Palida Boonyarungsrit
Food images by Steve Lee
This article was published 27 October 2015