The season for seafood is well and truly upon us, and London is fuller than ever with places to indulge. With that in mind we’ve put together a selection of the best places – old and new – to indulge in three of the sea’s most luxurious delicacies: lobsters, oysters and scallops.
Chris O’Neil, executive chef at Charlotte Street’s legendary seafood restaurant Pescatori, has given us his recommendations to incorporate, and we’ve also asked for his top tips on preparing seafood at home. For more guidance, Pescatori is running regular seafood masterclasses costing £90 per person.
Lobsters
When Burger & Lobster arrived on the scene in late 2011, it helped push London’s love affair with lobster to new levels by proving how affordable the crustacean can be – just £20.
If you want more glitz and less queuing, try Scott’s in Mayfair, or Angler near Moorgate. Or opt for a water view with your beast at Lobster House in riverside Wandsworth.
It’s not just about the traditional serves, either. Lobster rolls are following in the footsteps of burgers as London’s snack du jour. Newly launched Smack Deli in Mayfair, from the team behind Goodman and Burger & Lobster, serves them in varying guises from Californian to Mexican. Lobster Kitchen in Bloomsbury offers garlicky, Asian and spiced versions alongside tails, soups and salads. You’ll also find rolls at The Fish & Chip Shop, Hawksmoor and roaming street foodie B.O.B’s.
O’Neil's tip‘Chefs and diners need to respect lobsters and make sure they are killed in a humane way. If you’re doing this at home, put the lobster in the freezer for two hours, which will leave it unconscious. Then firmly push the tip of a sharp knife through the centre of the cross on its head, which it is thought kills it instantly. If you’re out, feel free to enquire as to how the do it in the restaurant.’
Oysters
These pearl-bearing bivalves are inextricably linked to luxury, making them a sought-after treat in any of their guises. If you’re really going for luxury, it’s hard to beat Mayfair classic Bentley’s where Richard Corrigan presides over a kitchen that churns out faultlessly implemented classics.
Or try nearby Wiltons, which is one of London’s oldest restaurants, dating back to 1742. It has recently gained a brand new oyster bar where snacks such as angels on horseback are served alongside raw oysters.
Any one of the three Wright Brothers restaurants is also worth paying a visit to. The newest branch, in Spitalfields, comes complete with a seawater tank holding 1,400 live shellfish in the middle of the dining area.
For thoroughly good value try The Culpeper, also in Spitalfields, where a daytime oyster happy hour means you can get 12 for £10. Or head to Wandsworth where riverside restaurant Brady’s sells twelve West Mersea oysters for £13.95.
O’Neil's tip‘People think oysters are hard to prepare at home, this is nonsense. Look for oyster crackers online and you’re sorted. In terms of eating out it’s hard to beat Bentley’s, the place is an absolute institution, and actually very good value for what you get.’
Scallops
A scallop dish that’s becoming increasingly common in London is ceviche, where the creaminess and sweetness of the seafood really stands out against its citrus marinade. Try it at recently launched Peruvian restaurant Lima Floral in Covent Garden, the aptly-named Ceviche in Soho, or British and Peruvian fusion restaurant Pachamama in Marylebone.
More traditional preparations are also going strong: plump scallops with hazelnuts have won high praise at Nathan Outlaw’s Chelsea restaurant Outlaw’s at The Capital, and Maida Vale gastropub The Truscott Arms serves a stand-out dish of scallops with pork belly and cauliflower purée.
O’Neil's tip‘For a simple but very impressive dinner party dish, take a scallop in its shell and pour over a dressing of lemon juice, lime juice and honey. Leave it for around 10 minutes and you get a very lightly cured scallop ceviche.’
Published 12 November 2014