What’s better than a new restaurant? Two. Some people are just never full, are they? We’ve been pinballing around the city, from Parisian import Frenchie in Covent Garden, to Islington’s new fish-focused joint Galley, to deliver our verdict. Two London classics in the making? Find out here…
Frenchie, Covent Garden (above)
Nantes-born Gregory Marchand gained his nickname, Frenchie, while working with Jamie Oliver at Fifteen. We ate at his Paris wine bar (there’s a six-month wait for the much-lauded bistro) and were immediately seduced by his assured cooking and bright flavours. So we were chuffed to discover that he was opening a London outpost. Here, set designer Emilie Bonaventure’s interiors combine city chic with a hipster vibe. It’s polished but laid-back – much like the welcoming service. There’s no six-month wait for tables either: the ground-floor dining room features 18 bar seats for walk-ins; the basement with its open kitchen accommodates larger groups.
A fixed-price lunch menu – £22/28 for two/three courses – offers three choices for each course, while dinner choices are more extensive, with dishes designed for sharing. Deceptively simple descriptions translate into artful dishes, where every ingredient plays its part. Silky textured hot-smoked trout is backed by rustic Brussel tops and a scattering of micro-herbs. Juicy chicken sits in a pool of rich jus, with a brilliant dot of Meyer lemon purée adding citrus zing. To finish, bitter-sweet chocolate tart was topped with flakes of Maldon sea salt and accompanied by a lusciously smooth bacon ice cream for a thrilling combo of sweet and savoury.
The sharing concept works ideally for two; with more you may feel short-changed. However that’s our only gripe. When Frenchie launched Marchand said: ‘I wanted to create a lively, yet relaxed place where you want to return again and again.’ We have to say he’s succeeded.
Galley, Islington (above)
With 10 years as head chef of Randall & Aubin under his belt, Polish-born Marcel Grzyb is bringing his fish-led cookery to Islington’s bar-restaurant scene. His sister Oriona Robb, in collaboration with designer Mika Burdett, is behind the eclectic interior (green velvet banquettes, Moroccan tiles, vintage rugs) that provides an apt backdrop for the all-day menu of globally inspired small and large plates.
A meal might start with a colourful tower of yellowfin tuna tartare, stacked with soft mango and avocado and drizzled with sticky teriyaki; or smoky-rich octopus and chorizo a la plancha. Mains span the ocean, from John Dory with saffron mussel sauce to a majestic-looking lobster pappardelle. We plumped for sea bass, which arrived emanating truffle-laced aromas atop plump gnocchi, bobbing in a moreish broth of wild mushrooms. Scottish venison provides a worthwhile meaty alternative. An enticing brunch list (duck Benedict, perhaps), prettily presented puddings (creamy pannacotta arrives with a scattering of honeycomb, flowers and sour blackberries) and a sound selection of Old and New World wines (though more options by the glass are needed) add to Galley’s appeal.
At the front, a compact bar serves cocktails both traditional and contemporary; here, French windows opening on to Upper Street should ensure summertime crowds.
Check out our recent SquareReel News video on location at Galley, or find out more and book a table at Frenchie or Galley here.
This article was published 23 February 2016