Almost 30 years after setting up shop in New York, Nordic sensation Aquavit is set to open in London. Overseen by executive chef Emma Bengtsson, Aquavit hopes to make its mark on the capital’s restaurant scene and accelerate the growing trend for Swedish cuisine. Avid foodies that we are, we managed to track Emma down for a quick chat to find out more.
Why London?
I think when it comes to capital cities, London is one of the places that is up there with New York. It’s always growing and expanding and it’s a very interesting city where a lot of things are happening. To get into that scene and be able to be part of it is extremely exciting.
How will London’s Aquavit be different to its New York sister?
Since we’re not catering for 40 or 50 people with a 15-course tasting menu like in New York, the London menu will be more approachable. The dishes themselves can’t have 30 components on the plate, but the flavour profile will be the same. The heart and soul of the dishes from the New York menu will still be there, just adapted to a bigger audience and made more approachable.
How important is a restaurant’s look?
There’s a really famous Swedish chef who once said, ‘Going into a restaurant should be like walking into a theatre’. It’s an event and that has to involve all the elements. It can’t just be amazing food…if it was only about making good food we could just put the food in a bowl and give you a spoon.
You’re the first Swedish female chef to run a two-star Michelin kitchen – what’s that like?
You try not to think about it too much - then every year when it gets to October it’s the only thing you think about! I’m confident, but it’s still such a pressure. I didn’t come into the business to be a famous chef, I just wanted to cook. I never really asked for any of it, so when you have eyes on you it’s a lot of pressure. But I try not to think about it and just have fun.
Where is your go-to holiday destination?
Pretty much anywhere where there is a beach. I travel a lot to either the Dominican Republic or Cuba, mostly because of the music and the people. So one of those two islands, for sure.
What is your foodie guilty pleasure?
I don’t know if it’s weird, but I’m a seafood person. I don’t eat sweets, so I used to buy a packet of crayfish and sit and finish it in front of the TV.
What would be your death-row meal?
Can I say crayfish again? I could eat crayfish any time.
What foodie trend do you wish would disappear?
All the gimmicks that surround molecular gastronomy…I think the worst part is that nowadays, people coming from culinary school, they don’t know how to cook. They can do all this weird stuff but they don’t know how to cook a piece of meat.
What do you do in your down time?
I work out… I dance or work out, one or the other.
Will Aquavit’s arrival result in more Nordic restaurants in London?
I think so. Aquavit has been in New York for 29 years and now that we’ve gained more publicity, Nordic restaurants are popping up everywhere. I don’t know if it’s because of us, but I’m just saying…
Are there plans for more Aquavit restaurants?
I think we need to focus and concentrate on London first, but we’ll see what the future brings. It’s very important to put all the effort and energy we have into London and make that a good sister to New York. We’ll see if the family grows bigger, but we’ll start with London.
Aquavit will open at St James's Market later this year.
This article was published 17 August 2016