Xavier Rousset is a hot name on the London wine scene, with a string of successful, wine-leaning restaurants behind him. Has he struck gold again?
In 2002 at the age of 23, Xavier Rousset became the world’s youngest Master Sommelier: just one highlight on a sparkling CV that includes a stint at
Le Manoir aux Quat’Saisons. Rousset caused shock waves last year when he quit Michelin-starred
Texture and
28°-50° – the famous duo he founded with chef Agnar Sverrisson – so
Blandford Comptoir marks his return to the game, and we reckon it’s a winner.
Friendly staff and a creative Mediterranean menu make this casual neighbourbood joint immediately appealing, and – as you’d hope – its wine list is an oenophile’s delight. Marble-topped tables and a smart counter (reserved for walk-ins) give a classic feel to the small dining room that’s brought bang up-to-date with its petrol-blues and pristine tiling. The menu by chef Ben Mellor (also ex-28°-50°) focuses on prime ingredients. Sections are headed ‘Fish’, ‘Vegetable’ and so on. Most dishes are available in starter or main-course sizes, so you can choose several small plates to share or the traditional three courses.
We began with thin slivers of raw lamb in a fresh Amalfi lemon and mint dressing, punctuated by intense bursts of caper: the carefully layered flavours showing deft culinary skill. A heartier dish of tender grilled octopus and potatoes epitomised the Med on a plate, bolstered by rich olives and the kind of tomatoes you usually only find in sunny markets on foreign holidays. Closer to home, plump scallops with a light pea velouté and sweet beans reminded us of an English summer garden.
We can also recommend the quail, which comes in a rich jus balanced by the lighter texture of a truffle and chicken boudin – the perfect match for a surprisingly silky Côtes du Rhône from Rousset’s list. And what a list: over 50 Champagnes, 20 interesting by-the-glass choices and knock-out older bottles will see wine-lovers flocking here; monthly tastings are run, allowing regulars to help pick new wines. Marylebone’s bon viveurs have a new reason to celebrate.
Wine guide
Xavier Rousset’s reputation rests secure with this carefully curated list, which features some brilliant choices for both wine pros and novices. Champagne and Madeira are highlights, along with a fine-wine section packed with real gems. Best Buy: Le Laouzil St-Chinian 2014, Domaine Thierry Navarre, Languedoc-Roussillon, France; £35.
Find out more and book a table at Blandford Comptoir here
This article was published 10 June 2016