This low-key, Gascon-inspired bistro is the sort of fantasy French restaurant one longs to find in Paris – but only London does really well these days. A prix fixe menu offers a starter of house mixed leaf salad, one main and a side for under £20: magnifique value for the Square Mile borders.
As the name suggests, the menu features a concise selection of duck dishes, showcasing it in various forms such as confit leg or slices of chargrilled breast. The sole vegetarian option consists of a grilled tarte which sees a medley of roasted vegetables resting on a bed of puff pastry.
Our salad was so drenched in vinaigrette it made our noses twitch, but things improved with the main course. Sandwiched between a doughy brioche bun, the duck burger patty was a thick and juicy delight, perfectly served by a pleasingly large side order of frites – dusted with salt and encased in crisp, golden skin.
The two desserts on offer – a shimmering crème brûlée which cracks to reveal its creamy filling and a slice of warm apple tart served with a scoop of crème fraiche – were pleasant rather than outstanding. Then again, that’s sort of the point here. Monsieur Le Duck isn’t trying to reinvent the wheel, but it does succeed at being a welcoming, refreshingly casual and attractively good-value affair.