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KOYN Thai

Thai·
££££
·
Bronze Award
·

SquareMeal Review of KOYN Thai

Bronze Award

KOYN Thai is the latest addition to the ever-expanding portfolio of restaurateur Samyukta Nair, joining the ranks of MiMi Mei Fair, Bombay Bustle, Jamavar and KOYN, which sits just upstairs. KOYN Thai extends the slick, black aesthetic of its Japanese counterpart: it’s a moody, low-lit, subterranean space that feels right at home with its Mayfair surroundings. A focal kitchen spans the length of the room, offering a front row seat as a skilled team of chefs bustle about.

Heading up the operation is Bangkok-born Rose Chalalai Singh, whose fiery regional Thai menus assert vibrant authenticity. No expense has been spared on the spice front; KOYN Thai isn’t toned-down for western tastes, and it’s all the better for it.

Service is friendly - we’re guided through the menu and advised on the heat level of each dish. But there’s a level of haste which sees courses arriving out of order, and means the whole evening is wrapped up rather quickly, not allowing enough time to savour each dish before the next one arrives. These are only minor issues and could easily be fixed by a bit of fine tuning.

Menus have been designed for family-style sharing and there’s plenty of choice, from a ferociously hot Tom Yum soup packed with plump prawns and juicy mushrooms to the sticky braised pork neck, caramelised from the robata grill and paired with zesty, sweet chilli jiew sauce.

A Chiang Mai platter, pitched as a signature dish, is slightly lacklustre: a combination of crackling pork skin, roasted capsicum relish and spiced sausage comes alongside a congealed mass of sticky rice and sliced vegetables that look as if they’ve been sitting out for a little while. Slightly charred morsels of the sausage, combined with a sweet but fiery relish, stand out amongst the rest, but can’t save the dish entirely.

The evening’s highlight comes in the form of a lamb shank massaman, slow-cooked until it's falling apart, and served in a rich sauce that offers a milder, but no less flavourful, option for the evening. Each bite is comforting, served with perfectly cooked sticky rice, making us think the earlier batch was a fluke.

To drink, we sip on eye-catching cocktails, fruity and complex in their design, but with too many flavours competing for dominance. It’s Mayfair, so prices are on the steeper side, but great value set menus allow you to soak up the ambience and the fiery flavours for a fraction of the cost.

Good to know

Average Price
££££ - Over £80
Cuisines
Thai
Ambience
Cool, Cosy, Glamorous, Lively, Luxury
Food Occasions
Dinner, Lunch
Special Features
Vegetarian options
Perfect for
Birthdays, Celebrations, Dates, Group dining [8+], Special occasions

About

Found in the heart of Mayfair, KOYN Thai offers a culinary journey of authentic Thai flavours. The restaurant is set to welcome the Bangkok born, Paris-based chef, Rose Chalalai Singh. Rose is known for her home-style Thai cooking, and is celebrated as one of the most fabulous chefs in her realm, bringing her talents from the celebrated cafe society in Paris, to delight KOYN's guests with the complex flavours, cooking techniques and spices of Thai cuisine.

Take the journey down the black winding stairs into the low-lit dining room and you will find Rose with her executive chef, Rhys Cattermoul, who cook their dishes over fire. KOYN is a restaurant that is split across two floors, and offers diners the chance to indulge in a multifaceted Asian dining experience that reflects Japan and Thailand. Rose's arrival at KOYN will have a menu that showcases the flavours of Bangkok, Chiang Mai, Phuket and the central provinces, sitting in the basement of this Grosvenor Street restaurant.

KOYN Thai's menu draws inspiration from across the kingdom and allows guests to go on a journey through Asia by way of Paris. You can expect to find dishes such as toasted coconut pomelo salad with wild garlic, green chilli and Thai basil escargots. To share, you'll be able to enjoy a Chiang Mai platter with sticky rice and crackling pork skin, capsicum nam prik, and spicy, homemade pork sausages. Exploring the other side of the pond a little deeper, you'll be presented with options of Southern Thai crab curry with wildbetal leaf bush and the river prawn choo chee.

If you fancy a delicious drink to pair with your meal, make your way to the KOYN Bar and enjoy the Izakaya-inspired drinking den that bridges the gap between KOYN Thai and KOYN Japan.

This venue also offers

KOYN
Restaurant

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Private Group Dining

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Christmas Parties

KOYN

Location

38 Grosvenor Street, Mayfair, London, W1K 4QA

020 3535 2000 020 3535 2000

Website

Opening Times

Lunch
Mon Closed
Tue 12:00-14:30
Wed 12:00-14:30
Thu 12:00-14:30
Fri Closed
Sat Closed
Sun Closed
Dinner
Mon 17:30-22:45
Tue 17:30-22:45
Wed 17:30-22:45
Thu 17:30-22:45
Fri 17:30-22:45
Sat 17:30-22:45
Sun 17:30-22:45

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