Established in 1828, Simpson’s has become a stolid institution for the British Establishment, and this eccentric, off-radar cocktail lounge is its upstairs bar. Knight’s was originally a chess club, hence the chequerboard fascia on its wee bar. Decor is reassuringly retro: frosted fern-coloured chesterfields and Louis XV repro gilt armchairs in matching silk damask. Bar snacks of potted shrimps, cauliflower curry, and pork and apple sausage roll appear alongside drinks on Knight’s notable new list. The cocktails – inspired by British traditions, and gin-led – have been developed in conjunction with Erik Lorincz, currently starring at sister bar, The American at The Savoy. Put The Kettle On (Earl Grey-infused gin, sloe gin, vanilla gomme, Campari and redcurrants) is certainly our cup of tea. So too is OMG!, a Champagne cocktail boosted with yuzu, gin, red vermouth and verjus. Another ginny jape aims to replicate the taste of fish & chips: OMG indeed!