Tom Kerridge’s high-end take on a traditional chippy has settled in inside the imposing, Grade-II listed Harrods Dining Hall. The restaurant accommodates just 24 diners at a time and we’d recommend pulling up a chair at the chef’s counter to enjoy the best seats in the house.
Kerridge’s Fish & Chips’ concise menu comprises snacks, fish, sides and desserts. We started out with an addictively moreish bowl of cockle popcorn, served alongside a cruet which allowed us to indulge in the nostalgic joy of dousing the dish in malted beer vinegar.
For mains, we opted for the market catch of the day, which on our visit was whiting - a fish that’s similar in taste to cod and crucially, not overfished (sustainability is a passion of Kerridge’s). There has been much online discussion about the prices at Kerridge’s; fish, chips and a trio of accompaniments (pease pudding, tartare sauce, curry sauce) starts at £35 per head, rising to £55 should you opt for native lobster.
So, to the £35 question - is it worth it? Well, we suppose when you can pop next door to purchase designer handbags that run into the thousands, it’s all relative, but we will say that this is an exceptionally good plate of food - our batter was crisp and feather-light, achieving its weightlessness thanks to being both gluten and alcohol-free (the latter a way to accommodate Harrods largely Middle Eastern clientele). Accompanying chips - puffy, textured, golden - could almost be mistaken for churros and are the end result of a meticulous two-day process which sees them cooked not once, not twice but thrice.
There are just two desserts available at Kerridge’s Fish & Chips, which sit on distinctly opposite ends of the indulgence spectrum; elderflower syllabub is light and refreshing, while flourless chocolate almond cake is rich and comforting.
There’s no denying that unsuspecting tourists might find the bill hard to swallow (seasoned Londoners would know never to expect a Harrods bargain), but truly delightful staff and a snappy, yet carefully considered wine list should help soften the blow.