A Smithfield institution for more than 30 years, blue-fronted Il Boteglio is a trattoria of the old school, right down to its old wine barrels, potted palms and candles dripping in Chianti bottles – although prices are not exactly ‘retro’. The menu trawls its way through familiar antipasti, salads, 10 sorts of pizza, assorted pasta dishes (fettuccine with meatballs, four-cheese ravioli, and so on) and well-tried mains ranging from lobster and pumpkin risotto with saffron, or tuna steak with deep-fried zucchini to calf’s liver with butter and sage or veal chop with rosemary on a bed of spaghettini. Set menus offer decent value for hard-pressed bankers, and the food is matched by a traditional list of everyday Italian wines.