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In the old days it was simply Gilpin Lodge, now the Cunliffe family's swanky Edwardian retreat by the shores of Lake Windermere occupies two premises within walking distance of each other. Head to the ‘Hotel’ for a taste of Hrishikesh Desai’s Michelin-starred food, served in main restaurant (now re-branded Hrishi). Seasonal British ingredients meet Asian flavours in a succession of clever riffs with exotic overtones – think ceviche of Kyle of Lochalsh scallops with carrot and cumin purée, toasted hazelnuts, Xérès vinegar and orange dressing, chilli-glazed poached lobster with claw fritters, avocado mousse, confit lime and grapefruit, tobiko caviar and ‘panch phoran’ mango chutney or loin of spring lamb and pancetta-wrapped confit shoulder with baby aubergine, asparagus, torched cucumber and masala sauce. Desserts such as peanut butter semifreddo with salted caramel, candied peanuts, hot fudge and banana ice cream are out of the same mould. For something less formal, try Gilpin Spice with its fired-up open kitchen.
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