If you visited and loved Nest in Hackney, then you're bound to fall for their sister restaurant Fenn, which serves modern British food in an unassuming corner of Fulham. Running the kitchen are executive head chef Johnnie Crowe (from Michelin-starred The Harwood Arms) and Joe Laker (formerly at Anglo), a mighty duo with impressive credentials.
The charm begins from the moment you step through its covered terrace, which resembles something akin to an upmarket potting shed. Adorned with trailing foliage, paned windows, long wooden benches and comfortable blue cushions, the snug space functions as a natural extension of the main restaurant, with a strong nod to the great outdoors.
This fundamentally British aesthetic is reflected in Laker’s menu, where he takes nostalgic, well-loved flavours and runs with them. The result is a condensed selection of clean, beautifully-executed and well-balanced plates that have seasonal produce and simplicity at their core.
To start, we chose the Fenn fried chicken (FFC) which sees six gnarly pieces of deep-fried chicken topped with a precise splodge of chive mayonnaise - its oniony richness playing best mate to the crispy battered coating. It’s easy to see why this is one of its most talked about dishes.
The fun continues with miniature seaweed muffins which are warm, doughy things served with a tapas-style selection of smoked cods roe, caviar and seaweed. It’s a playful dish with a build-your-own vibe for diners to get involved in.
Mains will set you back by £20-30, but is worth it if you’re in town. Pork and apple sauce gets an upgrade in the form of sticky pork belly slices, sweet carrot puree and burnt apple ketchup, which all act as friendly reminders of your favourite roast dinner – just a bit fancier. For fish lovers, the steamed cod is a must. A chunky fillet, velvety and flaking, is paired with smoked mussels and a smooth parsley veloute and served with a mini bowl of crunchy baby potatoes.
For dessert, opt for the pump street chocolate ganache with a chocolate crumb. Although, the yogurt ice cream on top lacked tang, it wasn’t enough to detract from the intensity of dark chocolate beneath.
The menu’s simplistic descriptions of each dish don’t do justice to what arrives at the table - but that's part of what makes ordering at Fenn so exciting. The food might not be what you expect, but you can guarantee it will be brilliant.