The gravy’s the thing at this new, smallish-but-growing chain of restaurants. Long-simmered roasted bones, organic vegetables and meat juices from the bottom of roasting pans result in a rich, deep liquid ideal for dipping into, and served with almost everything. The flip of the name refers to the burgers, made of West Country chuck steak and served up in a brioche bun, but there’s also the choice of roasted shoulder of lamb or beef topside served in a bread roll: the super-hungry can combine two and add some cheese and pickles. To drink, there’s the usual array of fashionable craft beers, spirits and a short wine selection as well as some great shakes.
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