23 June 2014
“Schnitzel and spritz” says the Boopshi tagline, and that's exactly what you'll get. Simple as. I love it and it's gone straight into my hallowed Tried And Tested list. This may have something to do with the second element: the heavenly spritz which is, in my opinion, the best in London. Sharp and sweet at the same time (is the humble OJ a secret ingredient?) and glugging around in huge ice-ridden goblets. I have to admit I have come to the spritz party in London a little late but I spent a year guzzling spritz which could knock you out at 20 paces from a little market-side bar in Padua so I feel qualified to judge. It also has a good deal to do with the first element, the schnitzel, which is similarly brilliant: lightly spiced, crumbly crumb with tender, juicy meat. I love that the menu only takes up a page, sticking to the Austrian theme with well-judged focus: I haven't seen sauerkraut on a menu in England for years, thank heavens, but the sight of gluvine and sachertorte is more welcome. As to the “theme” this place could so easily have strayed into pastiche but Boopshi is refreshing in steering away from retro vintage decor or contrived Hanoverian artifice: instead the walnut bar is a sleekly modern monolith, the walls are bare, large picture windows look out onto the street (although it is rather unappealing view of a building site at the moment so etched windows/frippery might be welcome), seating for the most part is at long shared bench tables. If it doesn't work out, they could paint over the front sign and turn it into a dim sum venue (I hope they don't). It is all so straightforward and simple without shoving your face in it or charging you through the nose for it, unlike the Tramsheds of this world. Our meal for two, with 2 drinks each, sides, shared pud and service was a very reasonable £75. A one-trick pony I would happily pay to see again.