The first outing from Leon Costa and Simon Phillips (ex-J Sheekey, Milk & Honey and Rick Stein), this classy well-designed newcomer also has kitchen pedigree with chefs from Le Caprice and The Ivy manning the stoves. Their aim is to bring some reasonably priced West End panache to the Sloaney heartland of Parsons Green – and judging by their regular local clientele, it looks as if they’re getting it just right.
Playful modern art, comfortable seating and a large suntrap terrace set the scene, while the menu revolves around a tempting roster of small plates notable for their carefully sourced ingredients and pleasing textures. Hand-chopped beef tartare is topped with a jaunty Parmesan crisp, and we also like the nicely charred but succulent lobster and langoustine burger with spicy mayo. Elsewhere, butch chunks of roast octopus and ‘nduja croquettes are partnered by smooth pea purée and creamy mozzarella, while the signature ceviche of black bream is all dressed up with pink grapefruit segments, avocado and a polite scattering of chilli.
If you’re ravenous, order the 14oz New York strip steak with punchy chimichurri sauce or grilled whole sea bream with capers and brown butter. For afters, Eton mess adds the satisfying crunch of meringue to summer berries, while roast peaches are perked up with amaretto crumb and bitter chocolate ice cream. Wines come by the glass or carafe, but also visit the handsome bar for some cracking cocktails.