Beso sits right at the end of Shaftesbury Avenue, and its location and laidback atmosphere lends itself well to pre- and post-theatre dining. The restaurant’s interior is a combination of shabby-chic accents and North African inspired decorations, including a mosaic built into one of the larger tables.
When it comes to food, Beso specialises in a mix of Spanish, North African and Middle-Eastern cuisine, which results in a fairly interesting set of flavours. Take, for example, the very large plate of green pea and herb hummus which proved to be a refreshing starter. Meanwhile, the grilled merguez sausage is a glorious mix of caramelised beef and lamb accompanied by an aromatic harissa mayonnaise which had just the right amount of kick.
Unfortunately, mains fared less well: our confit duck leg was cooked perfectly, but ultimately lacked any exciting or standout flavours. Meanwhile, a crispy cauliflower and caramelised squash with quinoa got better with each bite, but was let down by some undercooked fine beans.
The best dish came at dessert: a usually sweet white chocolate panna cotta with rhubarb was paired with a selection of savoury spices and nuts, which was a welcome surprise. For a mostly solid meal with a few twists on the norm, Beso makes a strong case for a visit.