Attawa

Attawa seems the antidote to the all-too familiar foodie destinations that have popped up all over London in recent years. Here, in this small cosy corner of Dalston, there is no ‘concept’ or a menu that’s needs explaining but instead a bustling family-run restaurant where diners are left to languid at their tables without the slightest suggestion that their time slot might be up any minute.

Small picky plates are fresh and light with golgappa’s DIY credentials making it a fun start to the meal. Soft shell crab and tandoor prawns may feel out of place geographically at a Punjabi restaurant but make complete sense in their eating, moreish with warming spices and well cooked. Mains are a mix of familiar favourites (the black dhal of every millennial’s dreams and a lamb biryani for instance) plus homemade breads and zingy chutneys fro age-old recipes. It is the house signature chicken curry though that will keep you coming back long after your full (just a tiny bite more, better just use up that last bit of bread), and any idea that you might be taking leftovers home for lunch the next day will sadly vanish before your eyes. Rich and thick gravy round the soft chicken is intensely savoury with that complex curry leaf flavour, and the whole thing is intricately spiced without much hot chilli heat. Dishes are matched by a short but familiar drinks list of beers and wines, plus chai and lassis.

The trendy, relaxed crowed are served by hospitable staff who all have that familiar buzz of a family, and make you feel part of their home. And as with all fair families, there’s pudding if you finish all your dinner. Sweet and syrupy gulab James is spongy and sticky and feels like a naughty childhood treat. The perfect way to end your meal on a high.

You might recognise Attawa’s owner Arbinder Duggal from his time on MasterChef: The Professionals in 2019. Having taken the cooking competition by storm thanks to his combined use of flavour, texture and colour, Ravinder decided that after his time on TV it was time for his own self-made adventure.

The result of this decision is a partnership with his wife Amar, who he now owns and runs Attawa with. The restaurant finds its home on a trendy corner of Dalston and serves up Northern Indian dishes from the Punjab region. The chef has taken comforting family recipes and given them his signature twist for a modern interpretation of age-old flavour profiles. Further paying homage to memories of his childhood, ‘Attawa’ is in fact the name of Ravinder’s hometown, where he was born and lived before relocating to London in the 1970s.

Having the misfortune to time the restaurant’s opening during what would be lockdown, the husband and wife duo decided to create a new takeaway menu from scratch, that could be served within the government guidelines at the time. This demonstration of creativity and flexibility made it a popular choice with the east London crowd even before customers could dine in.

Now, with the restaurant open for full service, the menu is split up into three main areas – small plates, tandoor dishes and ‘karis’. Expect soft shell crab and pakora to start, with various smoky lamb, chicken and prawn options available in the tandoor section. Mains brings options like a rich creamy dhal makani, a classic aloo palak (potatoes and spinach) as well as a rich butter chicken and a lamb biryani. Lots of the accompaniments play a special role too, with the recipes for various chutneys having been handed down throughout the generations of Ravinder’s family.

Interiors are peacefully plain and at odds with your regular Indian restaurant. Expect fresh white walls, dried flowers, vintage bentwood chairs and textural dinnerware.