The first thing that will strike you about Adesse is the view. The contemporary interior sits in a pivotal corner of the towering Selfridges structure, allowing a panoramic view of the retail frenzy below. The timing of our dinner sitting fell serendipitously around sunset – trust us, you won’t regret requesting a window seat in this joint.
It’s the latest opening from Matthew Kenney, an American plant-based chef beloved by the A-list. With outlets already in New York, Sydney and Dubai, it was only a matter of time before London followed suit.
Kenney says that his dishes invite guests to “reimagine the way they experience food” and at Adesse, this means a significant focus on delicate raw cuisine crafted with locally sourced, seasonal ingredients, although there are some cooked options on offer.
Unusually for this reviewer (a pudding person through and through) the starters were the shining stars. We sampled the inventive jackfruit “crab cake”, a crisply fried homage to the original that really hit the spot, alongside the flavourful golden soup adorned with spiced chickpeas, and the avocado tikka, which was lively and fresh, with curry leaf yoghurt so good that we cleared every drop from the plate.
Mains received more of a mixed reception. The raw courgette and tomato lasagna – the most Instagrammed dish in this establishment – was a hit, thanks to the generously piled pistachio pesto and clever macadamia ricotta. The cacio e pepe kelp noodles, however, felt somewhat underseasoned – perhaps our palettes are far too used to an excess of sodium, but with similar sentiments arising from our fellow diner on the subject of the accompanying smashed fingerling potatoes, salt and pepper shakers would have been welcome additions to our table.
We rounded out our feast with the chocolate and salted caramel crush, and we’re pleased to report that the salt did sing through here, along with a rich, deep chocolateyness that we thoroughly enjoyed. This isn’t a budget dining experience, but meals are fairly priced considering the location, with the most expensive main sitting at £22 – unremarkable considering the surrounding designer galleries, where a single bag can sell for thousands.
If you love the idea of mindful dining – indeed, the name Adesse translates as “I am present” – and challenging your palette with new tastes and textures, a trip to Adesse will certainly prove rewarding. The menu is creative and exciting, the sort of line-up we love to see added to the London dining scene – and with a couple of very small tweaks, we’d love it even more.