Adesse at Selfridges

Vegan·
££££
·

SquareMeal Review of Adesse at Selfridges

The first thing that will strike you about Adesse is the view. The contemporary interior sits in a pivotal corner of the towering Selfridges structure, allowing a panoramic view of the retail frenzy below. The timing of our dinner sitting fell serendipitously around sunset – trust us, you won’t regret requesting a window seat in this joint.

It’s the latest opening from Matthew Kenney, an American plant-based chef beloved by the A-list. With outlets already in New York, Sydney and Dubai, it was only a matter of time before London followed suit.

Kenney says that his dishes invite guests to “reimagine the way they experience food” and at Adesse, this means a significant focus on delicate raw cuisine crafted with locally sourced, seasonal ingredients, although there are some cooked options on offer.

Unusually for this reviewer (a pudding person through and through) the starters were the shining stars. We sampled the inventive jackfruit “crab cake”, a crisply fried homage to the original that really hit the spot, alongside the flavourful golden soup adorned with spiced chickpeas, and the avocado tikka, which was lively and fresh, with curry leaf yoghurt so good that we cleared every drop from the plate.

Mains received more of a mixed reception. The raw courgette and tomato lasagna – the most Instagrammed dish in this establishment – was a hit, thanks to the generously piled pistachio pesto and clever macadamia ricotta. The cacio e pepe kelp noodles, however, felt somewhat underseasoned – perhaps our palettes are far too used to an excess of sodium, but with similar sentiments arising from our fellow diner on the subject of the accompanying smashed fingerling potatoes, salt and pepper shakers would have been welcome additions to our table.

We rounded out our feast with the chocolate and salted caramel crush, and we’re pleased to report that the salt did sing through here, along with a rich, deep chocolateyness that we thoroughly enjoyed. This isn’t a budget dining experience, but meals are fairly priced considering the location, with the most expensive main sitting at £22 – unremarkable considering the surrounding designer galleries, where a single bag can sell for thousands.

If you love the idea of mindful dining – indeed, the name Adesse translates as “I am present” – and challenging your palette with new tastes and textures, a trip to Adesse will certainly prove rewarding. The menu is creative and exciting, the sort of line-up we love to see added to the London dining scene – and with a couple of very small tweaks, we’d love it even more.

Good to know

Average Price
££££ - £30 - £49
Cuisines
Vegan
Ambience
Cool
Food Occasions
Dinner, Lunch
Special Features
Gluten-free options, Vegan options, Vegetarian options

About Adesse at Selfridges

After pounding the pavements of Oxford Street, why not head to the second floor of Selfridges to refuel on some plant-based grub? From the award-winning chef Matthew Kenney comes Adesse, a vegan restaurant serving an elegant, seasonally-crafted menu alongside a collection of biodynamic wines. Kenney is a celebrity chef in the US with over 40 restaurants around the world, from Dubai to Los Angeles, so if you haven’t heard of him before, chances are he’ll be cropping up on your radar more and more.  

The name Adesse means ‘to be present’, a concept that weaves through every aspect of the restaurant from its seasonal menu to the simple, non-distracting interiors.  

The menu plays with flavours and ingredients you wouldn’t necessarily expect, with the aim of showcasing the possibilities when it comes to plant-based cooking. Starters include a Jackfruit “Crab Cake” with smoked red pepper roulade and beetroot carpaccio with yuzu kosho and poppy seed. Mains feature kelp noodle cacio e pepe with snap peas, pea shoots and dehydrated black olives and a wild mushroom and root vegetable burger with beet condiment and butternut cheddar. Dessert is again, innovative and unexpected, with examples such as hibiscus cheesecake with strawberries and pistachio and carrot cake with sesame, candied ginger and beet syrup. Diners can also opt for a selection of sharing plates such as avocado tikka with curry leaf yogurt and grilled potato bread and vegan cheeses with crackers and marmalade.  

Alongside the colourful plates is an extensive wine list of organic and biodynamic varieties as well as a drinks menu featuring thoughtfully curated spirits and elixirs. Cocktails, kombucha and teas are also available.  

The opening of Adesse supports Selfridges’ Project Earth initiative which encourages the approach of less meat and better meat, while ensuring it offers more plant-based options to the public.  

Location

400 Oxford St, Oxford Street, London, W1A 1AB

020 7318 3898

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