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Squaremeal Review of City Zebrano ?

It might be a push to describe Houndsditch as the new Shoreditch (as owner Cevat Riza did at the opening of this outpost of the Soho celebrity haunt), but Zebrano does its best to sprinkle glitter on one of the City's less animated quarters, carving a restaurant, terrace and high-ceilinged bar out of the old T Bar premises close to Aldgate. The cooking is a cosmopolitan hotchpotch, mixing ideas from Britain, the US, the Mediterranean and Asia – from the likes of smoked venison tartare with wasabi mayonnaise, pickled mooli and yuzu to rib-eye steak with chips and béarnaise, via seared tuna with Serrano ham, olive and caper dressing or Yorkshire grouse with savoy cabbage, Alsace bacon, celeriac and blackberry jus. The striking downstairs bar is all hard edges and acute angles, but there's also an eight-seat chef's table tucked into the corner of the kitchen.

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