SquareMeal Review of
Ze Basement Bar
Unique among Herman Ze German’s three London restaurants, this diminutive bar occupies the cellar of the German sausage sellers’ Fitzrovia branch. The space looks like a recreation of Deutsche delicatessens and automats circa The Beatles in Hamburg. ‘Let’s Fetz!’ (‘let rip!’) is spelled out in lights. What to rip into is a punchy range of draught beers, especially Market Bräu: bespoke-brewed in Herman’s native Black Forest exclusively for Ze Basement Bar. From Munich’s Paulaner brewery comes golden blond Helles and modish Weissbier, while the choice of bottled beers includes Cologne classic Früh Kölsch, Hamburg’s Astra Urtyp and two from Augustiner. Rarely seen in the UK, tangy, hoppy, clean-tasting Rothaus lager (£3.95) is worthy of its cult status among Germany’s more switched-on youth. Attempt to sink your teeth into one of Herman’s big sausages – Brat- Bock- or even Vegan-wurst – if you plan to avoid that wurst-for-wear look come tipping out time.