SquareMeal Review of
Dubbed the “quintessential London eatery” for many of its 275 years, Wiltons comes with the kind of delicious history that thrills fans of “glorious cuisine and masterful service”. You’ll pay handsomely for a velvet armchair or an impeccably turned-out waiter to call your own in the well-dressed dining room, while the carte celebrates the richness of British provender (from sea and land) and charges appropriately. Start with six of the best oysters, a prawn cocktail, plain whelks or neatly sliced smoked fish, before tackling poached turbot, lamb’s kidneys with bacon or something gamey (roast teal with celeriac, kale and orange, perhaps). The carving trolley makes a daily perambulation, carrying roast goose with confit leg and apricot stuffing, salmon coulibiac or a fine beef Wellington. Puddings are deliberately old-school (give or take the odd nugget of salted caramel popcorn), while the swanky wine list will make you feel as chipper as the restaurant’s top-hatted, flute-clutching lobster mascot. “A unique experience,” concludes one fan, and we agree.