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55 Jermyn Street
020 7629 9955
Archaic, determinedly old school and one of the few restaurants where that outmoded jacket-and-tie policy still seems wholly appropriate, this impeccably groomed restaurant looks right at home among the streets of St James’s. Wiltons is a handsome fellow indeed, “a restaurant with purpose and life” – so switch off your electronic devices and tap into the velvety richness of it all. As fish sellers of yore, with a family tradition dating back to Georgian times, Wiltons still majors on the finest British seafood – some of the best oysters in town, dressed crab, Dover sole meunière, lobster Newburg et al. Meanwhile, those with other palates and preferences might prefer a bowl of beef consommé or a twice-baked Stilton soufflé ahead of a trencherman mixed grill or fallow deer with roast shallots, fennel and cherries. Lunchtime trolleys are weighed down with gargantuan roasts and other pleasurable repasts, while desserts mine a rich vein of nostalgic comfort – apple crumble with custard, bread-and-butter pudding, etc. Service is deferential to a fault, and the upper-crust wine list is generously endowed with vintage clarets and Burgundies from the great years – although its “astronomical” prices are unlikely to trouble the old brigade in their Savile Row suits.
To celebrate the Year of the Woman, SquareMeal is running a series of interview profiles with top female chefs. Read here about Marianne Lumb’s colourful career as a private chef and the benefits of operating one of London’s smallest kitchens.
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Pre and post-theatre dining
SquareMeal 3 Stars
55 Jermyn Street
020 7629 9955
Green Park Tube Station 310m
Piccadilly Circus Tube Station 453m
Fortnum & Mason 87m
Jermyn Street 161m
Mon-Fri 12N-2.30pm Mon-Sat 5.30-10.30pm
Recently redecorated in celebration of our 275th anniversary, our comfortable and elegant private dining room, The Jimmy Marks Room is named after Wiltons head oysterman from 1942 to 1976. The comfortable, elegant room is suited to business lunches, board dinners or special occasion meals, and can accommodate up to 20 guests for a seated meal or up to 50 guests for a drinks and canapé reception.
Food & Drink:
Rate & Review
Food + drink: 4
What can one say about Wilton's. It is an institution, and for good reasons.
What is good about this restaurant? Well, pretty much everything.
The food is very good - British cuisine at it's best, simplicity executed incredibly well, allowing the produce and flavours to do the talking, not a chef's ego. My meal consisted of a cheese and onion soup (delicious, utterly delicious), cod with romesco puree (delightful and full of flavour - and I say this as someone who usually avoids the fish option), and a super apple crumble.
The service is first class - attentive yet unobtrusive. You are very well looked after by the staff. It is clear that they all have a specific role, but the shared purpose is simply to allow you to enjoy your meal.
The restaurant itself is also beautiful. Understated style and comfort - classic in every sense of the word. Combined with a a good crowd of businessmen enjoying their lunch and talking intently with their dining partners, it had the sense of a restaurant with purpose and life.
As for what is bad? Well, it's hard to really single anything out. As close as I could find is the astronomical prices of the a la carte menu, and the limited selection of Loire Valley reds on the wine list... But at this stage I think we really are getting overly critical.
I'd highly recommend this restaurant. Especially if one makes use of the Square Meal deal of £30 for the three course seasonal menu with a glass of Champagne included. We did just that (and with that deal, the value is arguably four stars, as opposed to the three I gave based on the a la carte prices).
A meal of shelfish and crustacea - oysters, crab, lobster - of superb quality, especially the Newburg lobster. Very tasty and balanced the dessert, a chocolate fondant. Extraordinary the wine, Finca la Florencia, a chardonnay of Argentina, indeed great for value in a wine list with exaggerated mark-ups. Not unforgettable the Pedro Ximenez.
Very polite, helpful and effective the Hungarian waitress. Overall a great venue, absolutely to go.
Food + drink: 3
Wiltons is over-rated, over-priced and over-tired.The service is willing but very average, the decor is in need of a major overhaul and the prices are outrageous for some truly average and frankly unimaginative cuizine. There are many other restaurants in London that offer better food in nicer surroundings for half the price.
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