SquareMeal Review of
An abundance of “old world charm” distinguishes Anthony Demetre’s gregarious Mayfair hotspot, especially when crowds are packed in for the cracking ‘working lunch’. At first glance, the long, panelled dining room (hung with contemporary art) might suggest a certain fussiness, although nothing could be further from the kitchen’s collective mind. Stylish flavour-forward simplicity is the mantra, with seasonal produce shaping the daily menu – witness hand-chopped beef tartare with Maldon oyster mayo or an autumnal broth of kale, sweet onion and artichoke. Wild honey is used to lacquer roast Goosnargh duck and to enrich an ice cream (with honeycomb and meringue wafers) – although one reader reckons nothing can trump the English custard tart. Game is a speciality in season: you can try slow-cooked hare, grilled venison haunch and other niche goodies without needing to know which way to pass the port. The wine list could benefit from a similarly accessible approach.