Wheeler’s Oyster Bar & Grill Room at Threadneedles Hotel

Threadneedles Hotel, 5 Threadneedle Street , London, EC2R 8AY

  • Wheeler s Threadneedles Hotel
  • Wheeler s Threadneedles Hotel

SquareMeal Review of Wheeler’s Oyster Bar & Grill Room at Threadneedles Hotel

What used to be Bonds is now Marco Pierre White territory – his name is atop the menu and "giant indulgent images" of the man himself cover one wall of the dining room. But for all the bravado, once you're seated in a burgundy leather chair you can expect "warm, professional service" and a safe menu full of throwbacks – think prawn cocktail, shepherd's pie and sherry trifle. Readers have eaten well here, although we found it rather mixed – from an underpowered smoked mackerel brandade to delicate fish pie, buttery comfort food loaded with good things. Elsewhere, Angus rib-eye is richly anointed 
with deep-fried oysters, tangy bordelaise butter and thick, crunchy chips, while golden Cambridge burnt cream with shortbread makes a faultless finale. Wheeler's trump card is ultimately its mix of lavish interiors and supremely cosseting ambience, which may 
make you forget the kitchen's shortcomings.

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