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34 Drayton Park
Despite a “rather lonely” location in suburban Drayton Park, this sibling of Stoke Newington big hitter, Primeur, is already proving its worth as a local destination that’s “something a bit different from the rest”. Occupying the ground floor of a 1950s industrial building, Westerns Laundry’s fashionably stark interior is brightened up with jugs of flowers, blue velvet banquettes and vivid paintings, while floor-to-ceiling glazed doors open onto a wide terrace. The daily blackboard menu focuses on small plates of seasonal food (chiefly fish) and the results are “absolutely delightful”: oysters are perked up with finely chopped shallot and lemon; home-salted sardine fillets are elegantly dressed with white balsamic vinegar; wild sea bass is accompanied by ribbons of sweet onions, artichoke hearts and succulent olives. Also, don’t miss Westerns Laundry’s version of fideuà, a traditional Andalusian one-pot dish of short pasta baked with seafood. If fish isn’t your bag, there are other beautifully composed dishes including creamy gnudi served with colourful courgettes and chopped hazelnuts. Wines are on point, with the emphasis on low intervention and small-scale producers.
London's Hot 100 Restaurants
Best fish + seafood restaurants in London
SquareMeal 2 Stars
34 Drayton Park
Drayton Park Station 7m
Holloway Road Tube Station 414m
University of North London - Rocket Complex 181m
Highbury Fields 417m
Tues-Thurs 5-10.30pm Fri-Sun 12N-10.30pm (Sun -5pm)
Food & Drink:
Rate & Review
Food + drink: 5
I'm lucky that I get to eat out in London fairly regularly, but if there is a “downside”, it is that no matter how good the restaurant after a while it all gets a bit samey.
Well, Westerns Laundry offers something "a bit different from the rest". We had booked a table in advance and just as well we had as it was pretty full by the time we arrived at 7.30pm on a beautiful sunny Friday evening. The front of the restaurant opens up completely and there are big communal tables in the middle with smaller individual ones around the edges, it’s pretty cramped, with industrial style décor, but was a really cool space.
Within seconds of our arrival we were greeted and seated and offered tasters of the white wine to help us choose – we went for a very nice Austrian Gruner Veltliner (2 bottles in fact). The plates are small, for sharing, and are mostly seafood, and they came out thick and fast. Our meal was absolutely delightful, from the plate of Iberica ham, to the superb home-made bread with the salted sardines in olive oil and ray wing with capers and brown butter, artichoke salad and silky smooth angel hair pasta with squid ink sauce and cod cheeks, all finished off with a selection of cheeses. I would definitely go back, but I it is in a rather lonely location in North London (but only a 15 minute taxi ride away from where I live) and at £140 inc service for 3 of us, excellent value considering the quality of food and cooking.
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