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The first Vingt Quatre opened 21 years ago when Fulham Road was a magnet for fashionable Londoners and staff were as cool as the crowd. How things have changed! Notting Hill’s VQ (the third) squats on a busy junction where tourists and locals refuel from a familiar menu. Unlike its siblings, this branch isn’t open 24 hours. Nevertheless, all-day breakfast has such crowd-pleasers as buttermilk pancakes with mixed fruit and Nutella, or eggs Benedict, alongside the full English or sausage baps. Your burger must be well-done (local food police), but order rib-eye as rare as you please. Small plates include mozzarella and tomatoes perked up with pesto, or crusted chicken wings with rather industrial piri-piri sauce. Linguine garnished with smoked salmon arrived as a sticky mess in a bowl, but apple crumble cheered us. VQ is well-priced and efficient, yet apart from a few cosy booths, somewhat low on charm.
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