SquareMeal Review of
By Appointment Only at Victorian Bath House
The ornate Moorish interior of these 1890s former Turkish baths is worthy of an Ottoman palace. Bathing ceased here in the 1950s, and today the venue has been recast as a pretend Victorian gentlemen’s club – a well-worn theme that is better executed elsewhere. ‘Butlers’ guide you on a ‘cocktail adventure’, which might entail Rhubarb Flip and a vodka St Clements, or Salted Toffee From Hipflask (a pre-batched whisky Old Fashioned as cloyingly sweet as molten Werther’s Originals). Home-infused ‘GINspirations’, poured from Tanqueray bottles, include heady lavender and rosemary, and even quince and blue cheese gin, which might work in a dry Martini. Free bubbles on arrival is a nice touch, but the initial coupes we’re handed are disappointingly fizz-free. In such sensational surroundings, BAO should be fabulous; let’s hope operators, Camm & Hooper (also behind Tanner & Co on Bermondsey Street), up their game before our next appointment.