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Jacob Kenedy and Victor Hugo, the duo behind Soho hit Bocca di Lupo, have transformed this former Pizza Hut into a bustling Italian piazza, complete with central fountain and strings of bright carnival lights overhead. Vico originally followed a somewhat confusing street-food concept, but has bowed to public opinion and relaunched as a conventional table-service joint. We think it’s much the better for the change, with a short one-page menu that roams along southern Italy’s Appian Way from Lazio to Puglia. We began with raw red prawns, sweet fleshed with a hint of blood-orange citrus zest; and mint-smoked aubergine served antipasti-style, though slightly too cold. No complaints, though, about deep-fried squid with lemony gremolata mayo, or properly crispy Roman-style pizza topped with porcini mushrooms and Italian sausage. Great gelato sundaes from the separate Gelupo counter satisfy sweet cravings, while drinks include an all-Italian wine list, Birra Moretti and Aperol Spritz.
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