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Squaremeal Review of Vico ?

Jacob Kenedy and Victor Hugo, the duo behind Soho hit Bocca di Lupo, have transformed this former Pizza Hut into a bustling Italian piazza, complete with central fountain and strings of bright carnival lights overhead. Vico originally followed a somewhat confusing street-food concept, but has bowed to public opinion and relaunched as a conventional table-service joint. We think it’s much the better for the change, with a short one-page menu that roams along southern Italy’s Appian Way from Lazio to Puglia. We began with raw red prawns, sweet fleshed with a hint of blood-orange citrus zest; and mint-smoked aubergine served antipasti-style, though slightly too cold. No complaints, though, about deep-fried squid with lemony gremolata mayo, or properly crispy Roman-style pizza topped with porcini mushrooms and Italian sausage. Great gelato sundaes from the separate Gelupo counter satisfy sweet cravings, while drinks include an all-Italian wine list, Birra Moretti and Aperol Spritz. 


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Essential Details for Vico

  • Address: 1 Cambridge Circus, London WC2H 8PA
  • Telephone: 020 7379 0303
  • Email:
  • Website:
  • Opening Times: Mon-Fri 12N-3pm 5-9.30pm (Wed-Fri -11pm) Sat-Sun 12N-11pm (Sun -9.30pm)

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