SquareMeal Review of
Umami at Crowne Plaza London Kensington
Named after that elusive ‘fifth taste’ much revered by the foodie avant-garde, Umami at the Crowne Plaza Hotel offers user-friendly, pan-Asian cuisine for Cromwell Road’s tourists and museum
trippers. Expect voguish, feng shui surrounds and a backpacking cook’s tour of Far Eastern climes, taking in Malaysia, Thailand, Vietnam and Japan, with tapas-style plates in two sizes (for solo
grazing or sharing). The kitchen serves up admirably executed, sustaining versions of Thai fishcakes, pandan chicken, duck with tamarind, beef rendang and the like – although these do little to
fire up the taste buds. Instead try something less conventional, such as wickedly delicious lychee tempura stuffed with prawns and chicken – or take an express tour through the region with one of
the admirably diverse 'Asian Journey' set menus. Tastefully subtle desserts such as homemade chilli and stem-ginger ice cream make for a refreshing finish.