SquareMeal Review of
Set on the edge of a picture-postcard village in the stunning Dee Valley, this converted shooting lodge and stalwart of the restaurant-with-rooms scene is all about elegance and comfort. Bryan and Susan Webb make a formidable double act (he mans the kitchen, she takes care of front of house), and the restaurant’s fans are legion – locals keep coming back for the superlative aged Welsh Black steak ‘au poivre’. Bryan has Welsh blood in his veins and tips his hat to local food heroes – although his beautifully presented, Michelin-starred dishes show a confident French foundation and an emphasis on bright Mediterranean flavours: grilled red mullet with aubergine purée, chili and garlic oil, fillet of turbot with leek risotto and red wine sauce, stuffed leg of rabbit with Parma ham and mustard sauce, for example. There are also a few more robustly patriotic riffs, ranging from Cefnallan Farm duck breast with duck faggot, confit potato, cider and apples to steamed ginger pudding with custard. It’s all about dedicated seasonal sourcing and a clever use of top-drawer ingredients, with back-up from a lovingly collated and gently priced wine list.