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“Always packed to the gills, Trullo hits the mark every time”, declaims a fan of this much-loved Islington spot. Everyone adores its lively (sometimes noisy) atmosphere, eager-to-please staff, calming contemporary interiors and a helpfully annotated regional wine list – not forgetting the “idiosyncratic Italian menu”. The “sublime” handmade pasta (perhaps pappardelle with exquisitely rich beef shin ragù, or ravioli of summer squash and sweet onions) is just the start. Also expect plates of wood pigeon with black figs and cobnut salad, baked skate wing with braised hispi cabbage and brown crab or char-grilled Dorset lamb rump with borlotti beans, datterini tomatoes and anchovy – “perfectly executed” dishes of top-drawer seasonal ingredients. To finish, we’re sold on the decadent chocolate tart and the regional Italian cheeses (Rocchetta Ubriaco) with matching wines. Be warned: this place is addictive.
At only 12 pages of wines, the Trullo list is a model of restraint, yet still manages to cover every region and style, with no wines (bar a couple of English fizzes) from outside Italy. Attractive, hand-drawn maps are a nice touch, and thumbs-up for the information on each wine – you’ll find details on the region, the grape, the alcohol level and the wine’s weight (on a scale of one to five) as well as personable tasting notes.
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