SquareMeal Review of
Tokimeitē is Japanese chef Yoshihiro Murata’s second attempt to bring intricate kaiseki cooking to London (his first, Chrysan, a partnership with the Hakkasan group, lasted under a year). Murata boasts seven Michelin stars across his three restaurants in Japan, but star-seekers should be aware that he’s only consulting here. Executive chef, Daisuke Hayashi, is in charge on a day-to-day basis, delivering a ‘kappo’ style menu of small dishes, bespoke for each diner and prepared as you watch. Counter seats give a prime view of the action, which is calm and considered – mirroring the calm atmosphere in the softly-lit dining room. Wagyu beef is a speciality here and stand-outs on our visit included perfectly seared slices, simply presented with a range of seasonings, and decadent truffled tartare rolls. Also worth ordering are the fresh magura tartare (a mix of silky tuna and pickled cucumber), and foie gras and quail teriyaki, a rich, textured dish beautifully balanced with fresh berries. The roll call of luxury ingredients also runs to lobster, king crab and Wagyu steak, so it’s no surprise that your bill will be wallet-busting – even by Mayfair standards. But impeccable service and attention to detail make this a memorable dining experience for those prepared to pay. The Japanese drinks list here is a real highlight too.
Tokimeitē is recommended for