SquareMeal Review of
Three Eight Four
New from Brixton tapas and cocktail joint Seven, this buzzy wee star has a distinctive look: post-Apocalypse chic on a shoestring? Cocktails (from £6) include Bombay Kitchen (Ophir gin, rum, coriander, mango, mint and Tabasco served with poppadom and chutney). Try Tart’n’tide (Auchentoshan Lowland single malt, Licor 43, Cointreau and lemon sweetened with honey and served over seaweed-infused ice); it drinks like a breezy day by the Isle of Bute briny. The money shot is Four in the Pink, a swinging ménage that hooks up Campari and Cointreau with Amaretto and peach bitters. Snack on tapas such as ’nduja and ricotta bruschetta, pear and pecorino salad, and arancini. You’ll also find affogato and charm by the bucket-load here: the magnificent Seven rides again!