SquareMeal Review of
Theo's Simple Italian
For the past decade, Theo Randall has wowed punters in his flagship restaurant at the Park Lane InterContinental with some of London’s most accomplished Italian cooking. So the arrival of Theo’s Simple Italian – offering all the authentic, bold flavours at wallet-friendly prices – should have fans shouting ‘Fantastico!’. The interior is a cluster of cosy sections within Hotel Indigo, with wood-panelled walls and low-hanging industrial lights. Charming Italian staff guide you through the regionally inspired dishes. We began with a Negroni Sbagliato (Campari, vermouth, Prosecco), then moved on to a bruschetta topped with impossibly rich tomatoes and plentiful chunky, crunchy fritto misto. For secondi, rich, meaty fish stew stole the show, but the line-up of expertly cooked pasta – especially linguine with clams, artichoke and bottarga – is exceptional too. For dessert, white chocolate tart with a gentle chilli kick is divine. A stunning little package, well worth a trip to Earl’s Court.