SquareMeal Review of
The White Swan Pub & Dining Room
It's a wrench to tear yourself away from the cosy wood-panelled bar on the ground floor at The White Swan but it's not such a sacrifice when you have a seat reserved in the dining room upstairs. Pristine white tablecloths, heavy leather chairs and a mirrored ceiling lend the place a clubby, urbane air, and the cooking is the perfect complement – in other words, sophisticated restaurant food rather than the pub grub served downstairs (think rib and shin burgers with smoked Cheddar). The kitchen puts its own spin on the classic repertoire – such as a pea velouté with ham-hock Scotch quail's egg or a bouillabaisse of red mullet, scallops and cod cheeks with saffron potatoes. For dessert, treacle tart is paired with zingy lemon and yoghurt ice cream. Wines start at £19, with the upper end dominated by France.