SquareMeal Review of
The White Onion
Fans of The French Table will be pleased to hear that Eric Guignard is overseeing the daily menu at this très jolie neighbourhood joint among the boutiques of Wimbledon Village. Formerly The Lawn Bistro, a bright makeover has created a warm and welcoming interior, with friendly service to match. The good looks don’t stop with the varied artworks on the wall either, as beautifully presented plates showcase an assured touch in the kitchen from head chef Frédéric Duval. To start, punchy roast Périgord goat's cheese came wrapped in thin slivers of ventrêche bacon, with sweet figs to balance the saltiness and a delicate lavender foam that managed not to overpower the dish. Tempura prawns and plaice boasted super-light batter, paired with classic sauce gribiche. Mains kept up the good work; notably sweetly caramelised pork belly with a wickedly piggy croustillant of pork belly, ham hock and smoked tomatoes. The wine list contains many well priced gems to match – we love exploring the ‘unusual suspects’ section – while oozing cheese from La Fromagerie and decadent desserts such as melting-middle chocolate moelleux give you plenty of reasons to linger. Set lunch menus at the weekend are a real steal for food of this quality; book well ahead for the tennis championship fortnight.